Behind the seams | hiding knots+tails in hand sewing

 Some principles I have learned in the last couple of years to hide them:

  • It's possible to hide all your knots and tails in your felled seams.  Think of which side to begin needling while doing construction, and which side you're going to fell the seam on.
  • Where possible, start the knot/tail in between cotton jersey layers.  Finish by needling the tail in between layers.
  • When I have done triple layer garments (i.e. the innermost layer is pure un embroidered jersey), this has essentially covered all the knots and tails (and subsequent itching caused by too many of them).
  • Construction and embroidery can be creative.  There are other methods that will hide the knot and tail, even on the outside (seen side) of the garment.  I'm currently doing this while whip stitching appliqué on to the front of my factory dress.  I'm knotting off using existing whip stitches and then hiding the tail underneath the appliqué. This is possible because the thread is relatively thin; it would not work on thick/strong thread because the knot will be big.
  • When doing the stitching for binding (such as the neckline and armholes), think about at which point you start the needling.  The tail will be better hidden if it's nearest to the fold of the binding.

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